Bars and Cafes in Hoan Kiem (Hanoi)

Moca Cafe

Pungent coffee scents enticingly waft from Moca Cafe. Sandwiched between an upscale tailor and a refined housewares store, this all-purpose spot anchors Hanoi's artsy neighborhood and boasts one of the finest brick walls in the city. Expatriates flock to Moca for Western brunches and crosswords, and travelers find respite with spring rolls and magazines. With a variety of Indian offerings, the Oven-baked Naan is scrumptious. The menu appeals to both vegetarians, and steak-and-potato eaters.

Polite Pub

The Polite Pub offers its largely foreign clientele the comforts of home. The owners sate cravings to munch while you drink with an endless supply of roasted peanuts; the CD collection draws from mostly Western favorites, both past and present; and foosball and pool provide sporting distractions from the main activities--drinking and cavorting. Besides beer, the women's Vietnamese pool champion bartender mixes good margaritas and Long Island ice teas.

Lac Viet Cafe

A cross between a library, a movie theater and a cafe, Lac Viet satiates many desires. Centrally located on Hoan Kiem Lake, this tranquil two-story little cafe provides a stomping ground for travelers and expatriates. Hanoians can join the library, which features authors ranging from the page-turning Robin Cook to the more literary Toni Morrison. Several nights a week the cafe shows videos. Aside from the entertainment factor, Lac Viet entices customers with coffees, bagels, sandwiches, salads and ice cream.

The Met' Pub

The Met' Pub, located inside the posh Hotel Sofitel Metropole, boasts more than 40 different beers, the occasional live music performance and bar food to snack on. Along with hotel guests who drift in to enjoy a pre-dinner beverage, local Hanoians perch on the wooden stools to unwind after work, watch sporting events or enjoy the tunes of local bands. A well-stocked magazine rack appeals to those sipping a cocktail alone. The fancy selection comes at a price--even the price of local draft beer is nearly double that of other bars.

Au Lac Cafe

Au Lac's extensive menu and soothing courtyard setting offers an appealing lunch locale or tea-and-cake pit stop. Housed in a French villa opposite the Hotel Sofitel, this quaint cafe cultivates a colonial appeal. The kitchen deftly prepares food from around the world like sandwiches, pizzas, salads, pastas, burgers and, of course, Vietnamese standards. Those in need of frothy coffees will delight in the array of java favorites such as cappuccinos, mochas and lattes.

Le Maquis Bar

This late bar is very popular with French expatriates, with the owner being half—French himself. Its interior comprises of varnished wood furniture and decor, customized chopper—bike seats with red leather upholstery and a balcony supporting at least 10 different varieties of ruou (Vietnamese rice wine). If motorcycles are your thing, The Minsk Motorbike Club runs tours from here so there is much talk of "bike treks" and "piston rings" between bouts of drinking.

Ciao Cafe

Just steps from Hoan Kiem Lake, Ciao Cafe's breakfasts, snacks and homemade ice creams attract a steady flow of both travelers and locals. This colorful cafe blends modern stylistic touches, such as steel-backed chairs, with old-fashioned cafe lore, like the illustrated menu. Meal seekers or simply grazers can find an array of edibles from an extensive international menu. Empty stomachs can gorge on the fillet mignon while snackers can pick at onion rings. Ciao's pastries, cakes and lush ice cream will sate sweet cravings of all varieties. The list of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks will also please.

Diva Art Café

Across the street from the Hanoi Sofitel, Diva blends inventive cocktails (including a fruity original named after the restaurant) and prepares both Western and Asian dishes. The garden patio offers a restful bubble outside of Hanoi's frenzied streets and an ideal spot to stop pre- or post-show at the Opera House. In addition to the standard Vietnamese dishes, the menu also offers Thai curries, grilled items from the sea, pastas and meats served in a variety of sauces. For dessert the rich chocolate mousse will send you buzzing for hours.

Fanny's

Fanny's scoops some of the richest ice cream in Hanoi. The old fashioned, French-style ice cream parlor is steps from Hoan Kiem Lake. Heavy metal chairs crowd around tiny metal tables and French posters dress the walls. Flavors vary depending on the season. The young rice ice cream, somewhat like a cold and creamy rendition of rice pudding, attracts a cult-like following. Other exoticisms include sorbets made from jackfruit and custard apple. Purists can enjoy cones while those craving a bit more adventure can select from a variety of fancy flavor and topping concoctions.

Trung Nguyen Cafe

Originally found only in Saigon, this coffee chain's rapid growth has made it the Vietnamese answer to Starbucks. Its main Hanoi location sits beside Hoan Kiem Lake. With Trung Nguyen you can be guaranteed a taste of the some of the best coffee Vietnam has to offer. It is best drank black or iced with a touch of sweetened milk, as is the norm in Vietnam. Among the eight varieties to choose from, the "Weasel" is the most expensive, though its process of retrieving the ground coffee is better left to the imagination. I suggest sticking with the arabica.

Quan Bia Minh

This lively Old Quarter bia hoi (draught beer) restaurant is notable for the charm of its ubiquitous owner, Miss Minh. It is also known for its ever-expanding second-story terrace, which affords insightful views of the street market below. A good range of Vietnamese rice and noodle dishes is skillfully cooked in the makeshift kitchen area at the back of the terrace. The chicken and coconut curry packs a punch, while soft drinks are available if beer is not your fancy.

Si Phu Restaurant

This restored French Villa serves a variety of Asian cuisines, but specializes in Japanese-style hot pot. The dishes are served with a variety of vegetables and meat, including crocodile. Servers adhere strictly to a very personal style of service.