A visit to the world's largest fish market is an unforgettable experience that is well worth the effort. Tsukiji outdoes every other fish market in the world by every measure- 5 million pounds of fish from over 70 countries pass through its portals daily. That's 5 billion US dollars worth of fish per year! There are over 60,000 workers and over 30,000 vehicles, most of which are are tiny trucks called "tares" (pronounced ta-rays). The largest tuna ever sold weighed in at well over 1000 lbs. and went to the highest bidder for $12,000USD. The fish market has two main attractions - the inner tuna auction which starts at 500AM and goes to about 630AM, and the outer vendors' market which is a fascinating array of all the world's sea creatures, swimmingly fresh, and which stays open until about 1000AM.
To visit Tsukiji, you must get up bright and early and plan to be there by 0600 if you want to see the real action. To go by subway, take the Hibiya Line to Tsukiji Station and walk south along the main street, Shin-Ohashi-dori. The first major cross street is Harumi-dori (extending all the way down from the Yon-Chome) where you'll see a giant 3-D tuna on a billboard just past Jonathan's Restaurant. Cross over to the tuna side of the street, staying on Shin-Ohashi-dori for 2 more blocks until you reach a Shell station. Go left at the Shell station and into the other world that is Tsukiji. Beware of fast-moving tares - this is very much a working market and not a Disney-fied tourist attraction! Walk straight back through the endless labyrinth of tanks and vendors until you get to the tuna auction.
Take in the spectacle (photos allowed but be sure not to get in anyone's way) and after the tuna auction take a leisurely stroll through the myriad of stalls and admire the sea's incredible bounty at the world's greatest fish market.
After you've taken it all in, you will notice as you are walking back out toward Shin-Ohashi-dori that there is a row of numbered warehouse-like buildings on your left. If the line is not too long, stop in for the world's freshest and finest sushi at Sushi Dai or Sushi Daiwa in Building #6. If the line is too long, you won't go wrong at any of the other sushi outlets in Tsukiji. Note that if you prefer to take a taxi to Tsukiji, just have the driver drop you off at the SHIJYOBASHI GATE, which is by the aforementioned Shell station.
One final note for those who can't make the Tsukiji pilgrimage: Sushi No-Midori, on the Ginza Corridor just around the corner from the Imperial Hotel, is the next best thing for super-fresh superb sushi. Bring a book because you will probably have to wait in line for at least 30 minutes - WELL worth it. The sushi is spectacularly fresh, varied, and extremely well-priced. And, like Tsukiji, it's an experience you will always remember from your Japan trip!
[One last note: Be sure to confirm that Tsukiji is open before you go! - they close sporadically for one-day holidays. ]
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