Although Japan is not a place you usually associate with nakedness, the Japanese hot springs, or onsen, are clearly the place to shed your clothes and your, ahem, inhibitions. I visited Odeo Onsen in a Tokyo suberb, and without the guidance of my Japanese-speaking male companion I was left to figure out the hot springs etiquette on my own. A kind woman in the dressing room tugged at my yukata robe, demonstrating the left side needs to be pulled over the right side of the robe, the strap tied and then rotated to the back. In the baths, I learned to put my washcloth on my head, rather than in the pool, presumably to keep the pools from washcloth ickiness. As the only white woman in the place, and blond to boot, I was self-conscious already. A sign in English forbidding entrance to anyone with tattoos immediately put me on alert and sent my hands scrambling to my lower abdomen to cover my tiny ankh tattoo. Could they have at least posted this sign at the entrance rather than a place where I was already wet and naked? Apparently tattoos used to be a sure sign of a Japanese mafia member, and this rule was a convenient way to keep them out. I wondered if I could pass for Japanese mafia. So I spent the rest of my soaking time with a washcloth plopped on my head and my hand hovering near my crotch, trying to hide my tattoo, while still appearing nonchalant.