San Francisco Highlights

Butler & the Chef Bistro

This tiny cafe tucked away in SoMA is the perfect spot for a late breakfast. Their cafe au lait and thick French toast (served with plenty of butter and REAL maple syrup) sent me to heaven, er France. Food paired with ambiance here will truly transport you...

Cupid's Span

This 60-foot-high Claes Oldenburg sculpture is fabulous, and my new favorite piece by the Swedish sculptor. (Though I do really love his Typewriter Eraser at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C.) Yes, Cupid's Span looks like a bow and arrow, but from a distance, it resembles a ship—a fitting image for its location on The Embarcadero. Plus, I like the suggestion of Cupid shooting an arrow into the heart of the city. The idea had me humming "I Left My Heart in San Francisco" for a good chunk of my trip. Now that's art that elicits reaction!

Ferry Bldg Marketplace

Talk about a foodie's heaven! I only had time for a walk-through during my visit (and a quick breakfast at Boulette's Larder), otherwise I'm sure I would have gotten lost in the cheese and salami outposts. If food excites you, you MUST visit this place.

E' Angelo Trattoria

This tiny Italian restaurant in the Marina District isn't necessarily a show-stopper, but its neighborhood-feel (we were the only ones with a guidebook) and comfort food was just what we needed. Their unique take on eggplant Parmesan is nothing short of delicious—it's smothered in cheese and sauce, then baked. I'm fairly sure it contains about 5,000 calories, but we're all on vacation, right?

Lombard Street

If you've never seen the "crookedest street in America," it merits a visit. If you're car-less and/or not feeling the steep climb up or down Russian Hill, take the Hyde-Powell cable car, hop off at the top, and soak in views of this gorgeous city. Peak viewing hour: sunset.

Philz Coffee Inc

The feeling I had when I stepped into Philz was something akin to entering an airport in a foreign country, where nothing's written in English and you have no frame of reference. The familiar "cappuccino-latte-macchiato" terminology doesn't exist here—instead, you'll see a chalkboard menu listing names (the various blends of coffee, I'll later learn) like Jacob's Wonderbar Brew or Anesthesia To The Upside. And instead of espresso machines, you'll see lots of silver pans and paper filters—each dripping out one cup at a time. Note: you'll be the only one who doesn't know what's going on. Judging by their ordering style and the barista's knowledge of their personal lives, everyone in front of me was a "regular." I was totally out of place, and I LOVED every minute of it. The baristas (this place seems way too down-to-earth to even use that name) were very helpful, and set me up with a cup of Tesora (the house blend), with cream and sugar. The coffee was delicious (if incredibly strong!!!), but it was the experience itself here that will remain near and dear.

Balmy Alley

Balmy Alley has found a spot in just about every guidebook, and deservedly so. The fences and garage doors along this block-long back alley are covered with murals, but don't be deceived by the bright colors: Most of these paintings carry strong political messages, deploring human rights violations or capitalist greed in Latin American countries. Try to decipher their meaning on your own, then head to Precita Eyes Mural Arts & Visitors Center (2981 24th Street), where a worker will explain the context of any particular mural. The center offers tours on Saturday and Sunday.

Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar

If I lived in SF, I would eat here weekly. Their fish is incredibly fresh and it's all sustainable—yep, that means no guilt when you slide that piece of tuna sashimi down your throat. The Happy Hour here is the real deal: $4.50 for specialty rolls and $4 for a large Sapporo. Sushi heaven!

Swan Oyster Depot

This is one of my top five restaurants of all time. I've been twice—each visit a decade apart—and it's been absolute bliss both times. I'm a sucker for fresh seafood, which is plentiful here. Add a few cold oysters, a bowl of divine clam chowder, chunks of fresh sourdough topped with salted butter, a crab salad, and an ambiance so authentic you'll think you've time-traveled back 30 years. Expect to wait up to an hour for a seat at the marble bar, which is the only place to sit. And once you do grab a stool, squished between diners on both sides, don't expect a bargain. This place may look like a hole in the wall, but prices don't match. (You'll throw down at least $30 for lunch per person). Be sure to chat up your waiter while he shucks your oysters—he doubles as a storyteller, and he's likely part of the family that's owned this place for 50 or so years. After lunch, walk to the corner and grab a seat on the California cable car, soaking up everything that is San Francisco.

de Young Museum

Architecture buffs shouldn't miss this Herzog & de Meuron masterpiece. The exterior has an odd look (with more of an Egyptian vs. Golden Gate aesthetic), but the interior wows—especially the Observation Tower. From this glass room, you'll not only see the acres of lush greenery below you—the view extends to the city skyline and the bay. On a clear day, you'll see the Golden Gate bridge in all its glory. The rest of the museum is worth a walk through—in terms of collections, it's no Louvre, but the building itself is quite a treat. Allow 1.5 hours.

Ton Kiang Restaurant

A visit to Ton Kiang is best for those who have a car or enjoy navigating public transportation—like me! It's about 4 miles outside of the city center, but it's some of the best dim sum I've had. No carts here, which means food is delivered on trays, hot out of the kitchen. The rice pancake with pork and fried shrimp balls are standouts.