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Armenian Quarter

From Jaffa Gate, walk south along Armenian Patriarchate Road to visit one of Jerusalem's unique ethnic communities. Armenians converted to Christianity in 301, and have always had a presence in Jerusalem, centred at the Cathedral of Saint James. During World War I, the monastery took in hundreds of refugees fleeing the Turkish massacres. About 2,000 people now live in this quarter. The Mardigian Museum will introduce you to Armenian history and culture, and nearby are shops selling the famous Armenian ceramics and unusual carved crosses. The Armenian cemetery (next to the unfinished cathedral) is believed by some to be the site of the High Priest Caiphas's house, where Jesus was questioned. You can sample Armenian cuisine at the Armenian Taverna.

Western Wall Tunnel

Guided tours of the Western Wall tunnel must be booked in advance. What is now far underground was once open to the sky. You will see "Wilson's Arch" - part of the support for a bridge connecting the Temple Mount to the Upper City, along with large halls from different periods, including one that was perhaps the Jerusalem council meeting room or city archive from the Hasmonean period. Water channels, and the largest block of stone used in constructing the wall are also visible. Models and an audio-visual display enable visitors to understand the various sites.

Tiferet Yisrael Synagogue

Directly across from the Karaite Synagogue is the remains of the once-magnificent Tiferet Yisrael (also called Nissan Bak) Synagogue. It formerly stood three stories high, with its own kitchen and ritual bath. Its huge dome was partially funded by German Kaiser Franz Joseph in 1869. During Israel's War of Independence, the synagogue was a defensive position of the Hagana, and was destroyed after the surrender of the residents of the Jewish Quarter. A plaque posted at the site gives details of the synagogue's history.

Wohl Museum of Archaeology

Descend three metres below street level and go back in time to the Second Temple period. The houses excavated here during the reconstruction of the Jewish Quarter after 1967 were those of wealthy priestly families serving in the nearby Temple. With mosaic floors, frescoes, and carved columns similar to those popular among the Romans, one also finds uniquely Jewish decoration, such as the carved plaster menorah design found on one wall. Evidence of the burning of this quarter by the Roman army in August, 70 C.E. can also be seen, especially in the nearby Burnt House. Combination tickets for the Wohl Museum and the Burnt House can be purchased here.

Burnt House

This house belonged to the priestly Kathros family at the time of the Second Temple. The excavated basement apparently contained a laboratory for making incense for the Temple rites. Among the finds were stone vessels, a coin mold, spearheads, and a woman's arm bone. The wealthy Herodian quarter was burnt by the Romans in August, 70 C.E. The family may have hid in the drainage canal visible to visitors, but were smoked out and killed. This is an eerily appropriate place to visit during August, when Jews commemorate the destruction of the Temple. Purchase tickets at the nearby Wohl Museum on 1, HaKara'im Street.

Ammunition Hill Memorial and Museum

One of the fiercest battles in Jerusalem during the 1967 Six Day War was fought here by Israeli paratroopers to take the well-fortified Jordanian position that blocked the way to the Mount Scopus campus of the Hebrew University. Visitors can walk along the trenches to imagine the fighting, and can pay their respects to the fallen at the memorial for Battalian 66. The museum offers models and an audio-visual display describing the battle. In the surrounding park, one sometimes encounters Israeli and Jordanian families partaking of a memorial meal in honor of relatives who fell here. There is a small entrance fee.

American Colony Cemetery

The Spafford family and friends from Chicago, Illinois, founded a controversial religious commune in Jerusalem in 1881. After the death of Horatio Spafford, his wife Anna became the dictatorial leader and "prophetess" of the group. The community's rule of celibacy ended when children in the community wished to marry. The small cemetery at the edge of the Hebrew University campus holds the graves of the Spaffords, along with those of other members of the American-Swedish Colony. The Colony was active until the mid-1930s. Its members operated a tourist shop, served as guides, and had a famous photography studio. The Spafford Children's Hospital is still in existence, and the commune's main residence is now the American Colony Hotel.

Paternoster Church

Go by taxi to the top of the Mount of Olives to visit the Carmelite convent, famous for the plaques with the Lord's Prayer inscribed in over 100 languages. The present church site was purchased by the Princesse de la Tour d'Auvergne in 1868. Her tomb can be seen in the chapel. Little remains of the large and beautiful Eleona church built by Queen Helena in 333. Here, it was believed, Jesus announced the coming destruction of the Jerusalem (Matthew 24:3-14), and taught the disciples the Lord's Prayer (Luke 11:1-4).

Mea Shearim

The neighborhood, quite fashionable and modern in the 1870s when it was established, is now the home of many ultra-Orthodox Jewish sects. Although it now has a rather shabby appearance, the neighborhood is really full of life, with many institutions for religious study, schools for the neighborhood children, and shops. Here you can buy almost anything in the Judaica line - mezuzah cases, challah covers, tefillin, religious books, shofars, kosher food. A special market opens to sell the Four Species before the holiday of Sukkot, and during Chanukah, every window will be lit with oil lamps. Dress modestly and men and women should not walk together.

Mount Herzl Military Cemetery

Israel's annual memorial day for its fallen soldiers is observed on 2 Iyyar (in May), the day before Independence Day. Official ceremonies take place in this cemetery. Here are buried many of Israel's leaders, including its assassinated Prime Minister, Yitzhak Rabin (1922-1995), whose memorial symbolizes the search for peace. Special monuments honor Jews who fought with the British Army and the Red Army during World War II, seamen of the Dakkar submarine; those who fell in Israel's War of Independence, and other specially recognized groups. Note that the cemetery is open at all times except for special memorial services for family members only.

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